Sprinkler Repair Services in San Antonio
Our Services
In San Antonio, a “good” sprinkler repair company is usually the one that can keep you compliant with Texas irrigation rules and SAWS requirements while actually fixing the root cause (not just swapping heads).
What to look for (San Antonio-specific)
Proper Texas irrigation licensing (TCEQ)
In Texas, irrigation work tied to the water supply is regulated by TCEQ. A Licensed Irrigator (LI) can repair/alter/service systems and handle connection-related work; an Irrigation Technician (IT) can also repair/service but must work under the supervision of a licensed irrigator. Ask for their license type and number. TCEQ+2TCEQ+2Backflow prevention competence (and the right license for testing)
SAWS runs a Cross-Connection/Backflow program and requires annual testing of certain backflow assemblies by a licensed tester (SAWS sends reminders for irrigation systems). If your repair touches the backflow device or you’re getting notices, make sure the company can coordinate the right testing/documentation (or brings/partners with a licensed backflow tester).Knows when an RP assembly is required
Certain site conditions (like chemical injection or septic/OSSF) can require specific backflow protection (often an RP assembly) under Texas rules and local guidance—this is a big “local knowledge” checkpoint.
Quality signals (anywhere, but easy to verify)
Gives a real diagnosis: controller/program + valve + wiring + pressure + leak check, then shows you what failed and why.
Written, itemized pricing: service call + parts + labor, and options (repair vs. upgrade).
Tests the whole zone after repair: runs the zone, checks for leaks, confirms coverage, adjusts heads/nozzles, and verifies the controller schedule.
Warranty + contractor-grade parts: clear workmanship warranty and brands you recognize.
Quick questions to ask before you book
“Are you a TCEQ Licensed Irrigator or an Irrigation Technician under supervision?” TCEQ+1
“If backflow testing is needed for SAWS, can you handle it (or provide a licensed tester)?”
“Will you check valves/wiring/pressure—not just replace heads?”
“Do you provide an itemized estimate and warranty?”
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Typical Problems Encountered
- Broken or Leaking Sprinkler Heads: Often caused by lawn mowers or heavy foot traffic.
- Malfunctioning Valves: Valves can fail to open or close due to wear and tear, debris, or electrical issues.
- Leaking or Burst Pipes: Freeze damage, root intrusion, or physical damage can lead to leaks or bursts.
- Controller Issues: Faulty wiring, programming errors, or equipment failure can affect system operation.
- Uneven Coverage: Incorrect head placement, clogged nozzles, or pressure issues can cause dry spots or flooding.
Contact Us for a Custom Quote
Every sprinkler system and issue is unique, which is why we offer personalized assessments and quotes based on your specific situation. Contact Sprinkler Repair San Antonio Service today to schedule your service appointment and ensure your lawn remains healthy and beautiful all year round.
Common Sprinkler Repair Questions
What each symptom often points to
One dead zone: bad solenoid, broken wire, failed valve diaphragm, or the zone line is ruptured so pressure never builds.
Constant running: valve stuck open (debris/diaphragm failure), controller “short” causing a zone to stay energized, or a master valve issue.
Soggy spot: cracked lateral line, cracked fitting, broken swing joint, or a head sheared off underground.
Low pressure: major leak stealing flow, multiple zones running at once (faulty valve or programming), or a partially closed shutoff/backflow valve.
Controller errors: commonly “short”/“fault” from damaged field wiring or a bad solenoid—sometimes just a power/transformer or controller failure.
Fast homeowner checks (safe + no digging)
Turn off irrigation at the controller (set to OFF) and watch:
If water still runs or the soggy spot keeps growing → it’s mechanical (valve stuck open or leak).
Find the water source shutoff/backflow area and confirm valves are fully open.
If they’re partially closed, you’ll see low pressure across multiple zones.
Run ONLY the problem zone from the controller.
If it doesn’t pop up and you hear water rushing → leak.
If nothing happens and you get a fault → wiring/solenoid.
Look in the valve box (don’t force anything):
If that valve box is flooded or you hear hissing there → valve/solenoid/diaphragm issue.
What a good tech should do on-site (so you don’t get upsold)
Verify whether water stops at the source (separates controller vs valve/leak).
Electrical test: ohm test each zone at the controller and at the valve box (find broken wire vs bad solenoid).
Isolate the leak: run zone, then pinpoint the soggy area (probe/locate), repair line/fittings, and confirm pressure returns.
Check for multiple zones running (programming error, stuck valve, or master valve issue).
After repair: run all zones, adjust heads/nozzles, and reprogram schedule.
When to shut it down ASAP
If it’s constantly running or the ground is getting mushy fast: shut off irrigation water at the source to prevent a huge water bill and erosion.